Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 15:49:19 EDT
It appears to be a very well kept secret that Mazda dealers get there special purpose tools and diagnostic equipment from:
America Kowa Seiki, Inc. ("AKS") 20013 S. Rancho Way Rancho Dominguez, California 90220 Telephone 310-638-1000 Fax: 310-638-3005 1-800-824-9655
AKS deals with the public at large and their prices are substantially less than at a Mazda Dealers. For example, a digital code checker at a Mazda Dealer goes for about $500+, while AKS sells it for about $325. I believe it is likely that Mazda dealers as well as the aftermarket folks like Mazdatrix get their special purpose tools from AKS. I have found the AKS people to be extremely helpful, polite and honest to deal with. And they take major credit cards. Lasty, AKS has a free catalog with all their parts
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 12:19:02 -0500
From: "Matt Murray" (email@example.com)
Subject: Re: 12V impact gun suggestions?
>There are also these models out too. >Hitachi 12V WH12DK and the Makita 12V 6911HDW. >I believe both are rated for 87 ft lbs. >The Hitachi is about $229 and the Makita is $279.
> Alrighty now...here's the deal. The photo and specs of the > Snap-On 1/2" Cordless Impact are on a scan I put up. > Deal Pricing is $ 300.00 for the gun, case, charger and one battery. > (regular $ 365.00 off the truck) > Extra battery is $ 65.00. (Regular $ 72.00) > >> Yep. And it's incredible. The best part to me is that it will undo bolts >> with more torque than it applies. It applies about 80 ft/lb, but will >> loosen >> more than 90 ft/lb. So it's perfect for mildly tightening your lug bolts, >> then finishing them off to about 85 ft/lb with a torque wrench. But it'll >> still loosen them easily and no breaker bar is necessary. >> >> As often as I change tires at autocrosses and road races (we campaign three >> cars) I'll never be without one again. >> >> I advise getting a spare battery. The wrench comes with a quick charger >> (takes about 20 minutes for a full charge), but having a fully-charged spare >> battery has been a real lifesaver a number of times. The case has a >> location" for the spare, too. >> Line forms to the right. >> -Duane Collie
For tools, check out the web site for Skyway Tools.
>Anyone make GOOD ramps that you can run an FD up on
>w/o add on shims, etc? 12" high would be ideal. I'd
>rather buy than build'em.
I built some myself out of 2x12s. I used two of these about 2' long, and stepped them so the bottom one is 2' long, and the top one is about 1.5' long. I used the table saw and cut a 45 degree angle in the edges they are ramped. In ASCII, this looks like:
_____ | | <-- stop ______________________________| | / | / 1.5' length | ________/ | / | / 45 degrees 2' length | /________________________________________________|
These work OK, but not great. The problem is that the car does not have a lot of torque, so you have to rev it up a bit to get the car over the 45 degree edges. Too much gas or too sudden on the clutch, and the ramps go shooting towards the front of the car (if you are backing onto them).
In retrospect, I would have made the length between the twp 2x12s more, so the car would rise up to the first step and then have more room before hitting the second (top) step. Also, I would cut them at a shallower angle than 45 degrees, but the saw I used wouldn't do that. This would make it easier to roll the car up.
These aren't 12" high like you wanted, but to get them under the car, you really can't have more than about 5 - 6" of height (more like 4" on my car (lowered). If you buy "real" ramps, you will have to use 2x10s or similar to give a gradual ramp up to the actual ramps, since the car does not have 12" of clearance.
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 09:10:14 -0700 Perhaps you could get some rubber and fasten it to the bottom of the ramp
legs or the bottom of the wooden ramps that you made? You know, make'em
From: Lou Young
Perhaps you could get some rubber and fasten it to the bottom of the ramp legs or the bottom of the wooden ramps that you made? You know, make'em more sticky.