Power Window Fix

Last updated: December 16, 1998

Joe forwarded this to the list, but his message did not list the original contributor. Let me know if you know who sent this. --Steve

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 10:30:06 -0800
From: teamramos@juno.com (Joseph M Ramos)

The fuse that is relevant (which I assume is the one you've checked) is the one inside the "joint box" which is located above the dead pedal next to the clutch. Once you have found the p/w fuse, pull it out and test it if it's not the fuse you have been checking.

With the fuse out, set your DMM to measure voltage (we're only going to test for 0 or approx 12 volts here, nothing fancy) and stick one of the test leads into where one of the fuse tabs go. Put the other test lead on anything metal you can find, as long as it's not painted (need to ground it to make measurement). SNIP See if the DMM is displaying 12 volts. If not, move the test lead to the other tab where the fuse goes. One of those should measure 12 volts.

Next go into the drivers door and locate the power window main switch connector (K1-01 in the manual). Find the White wire with a blue stripe going into that connector. Put one of the DMM leads on the metal end of that wire and ground the other DMM lead again. You should still be getting approx 12 volts on that wire.

Connect the p/w switch to the connector. Try to jam the DMM test leads so they touch the metal ends of the red and green wires inside the p/w switch connector (one test lead touching red wire, other touching the green). Now push the drivers window switch up or down. The DMM should display approx 12 volts or -12 volts depending on which direction you push the p/w switch.

At this point check the connector (K1-02) and make sure it's connected to the p/w motor and that the wire isn't cut anywhere. Otherwise, if all this checks out, your windows should be working.

If you did put the fuse back in and there was still no voltage at the white w/ blue stripe wire, take the fuse out again. Switch your DMM to 200 Ohms (omega) and put one test lead in the upper fuse tab (where there was no voltage) and the other test lead onto the metal end of the white w/ blue stripe wire at the end of the switch connector. You should get a measurement close to 0.

First, if you are getting 12 volts to the lower pin (other lead to any ground - I used the clutch pedal), that is a good start. Now, simply put the other lead which was on the clutch to the other side of the fuse (ie the top pin) and you should get 0 volts. While holding both leads in the fuse socket with one hand (not super easy but doable), simply lift up the window switch and if you now get 12 volts, it's something else!