Battery

Last updated: February 27, 2000

Replacement Batteries

The Hawker as seen in N-Tech's Battery Miniaturization Kit (BMK) seems to be the battery to buy. I have a BMK on order.

I think the BMK comes with the Hawker Model PC680.

The Optima is also a good choice. It has wound coil cells and is gel filled, to stand up to the strain, vibration, etc of racing. There are two models sold by Optima, the regular one (red), and the deep cycle one (yellow). You do not want the deep cycle one. It is for use in cars that do not have alternators (e.g.- race cars started by external batteries).

The Optima and Hawker are also (relatively) safe to put in the passenger cabin (e.g.- storage bins, rear hatch). Few other ones are. Read on for more safety info.

--Steve

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Update: If you are going to keep the battery underhood, check out the N-Tech battery miniaturization kit. It is designed to work with the ASP Race IC (the big one). It includes a Hawker plus mounting kit. --Steve

Pictures of the N-Tech BMK (borrowed from N-Tech's web site):

Stock battery vs. N-Tech BMK N-Tech BMK installed

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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 10:04:25 -0600
From: "Chow, Thom"

A few key folks were kind enough to provide a preliminary review of the N-Tech kit in it's various stages when I was anxiously waiting for mine. Well I received my BMK last night and thought I'd help out and give the List my first impressions of this kit. I believe it's pretty much in it's final form.

The battery itself is a pretty great idea. As advertised, it is much smaller than the stock or Optima battery it replaces. Slim profile, quality terminal posts (not the lead ones that deform), and yes, 14.7 lbs! (=21 lbs lighter than stock, I had the bigger Mazda battery).

The custom battery box it came in is also very good quality. It is aluminum and painted black with two ears for reusing the stock battery tray mounting bolts. The fit is outstanding in that the battery slides right into the box snugly with no worries of battery movement, shake or rattle within the box. There is a strip of foam at the bottom for additional padding, and also a bead of silicon on the inside of the longer walls for additional insulation. The kit also came with a battery strap made of canvas and metal buckles which go around the entire box over the top of the battery.

All in all, a very handsome and professional looking kit. There are some "custom" kits which look like it was rigged to meet the purpose solely, this one looks like it should have come straight from Mazdaspeed or something. Nick just finished the install instructions last night, and should be included with the kits. The instructions have two pictures and it is very straight forward. I plan on doing the install tonight, and I don't anticipate any problems. I'll post if anything comes up.

For those of you who have ordered this kit and are awaiting its shipment, pls be patient. He is pumping them out as fast as he can. Without laying it on too thick, so far the products that I have seen and ordered from N-tech are good, quality pieces and I will continue to support a good thing. Keep it up Nick!

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Date: Sat, 13 Mar 1999 12:40:57 -0800
From: "Brian L. Goble"

This week, I installed the N-Tech BMK (Battery Miniaturization Kit), new plugs, wires, and a Crane HI-6 ignition amplifier into my mediumly modified '94 R2.

When the BMK arrived, I was amazed at how small it was...much smaller than it seemed on N-Tech's web site. I kinda got that sinking feeling in my stomach like, "is this thing really gone power my car properly?" (it does).

The first thing I did was to weigh the BMK and my stock battery. The BMK weighed in at 14.5 pounds. My stock battery (actually, it was my second battery, the real stock one died about a year ago) weighed in at 36.5 pounds--a 22 pound savings! :)

Installing the BMK was easy. I made a small mod (drilled two holes in the box) so that I could mount my Crane to it. The BMK started the car right up and although my 7 is not my daily driver, I haven't noticed any difference with the smaller battery in terms of starting the car or driving with various accessories on.

See pictures of the BMK and Crane.

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Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 15:33:21 -1000 (HST)
From: Ted Koseki F8LDZZ

On Mon, 10 Nov 1997, Steve Cirian wrote:

> Make sure you do not get the deep cycle one unless that is what you
> want. (The deep cycle one is yellow.) It is for cars without alternators.

I got into a rather lengthy discussion a few years back with a fellow car audio enthusiast about running "deep cycle" batterys in automobiles. Here's some key points...

With this in mind, we concluded that deep cycle batteries are not a good idea when using in an automobile, both in a normal starting/charging role nor in an auxiliary role (due to huge current spikes from large amperage car audio systems).

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Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 15:45:07 -0500 (EST)
From: GREDDYRX7@aol.com

>Are you a distributor of Optima batteries? If so please
>send me a price list of your sealed racing batteries (800S,
>800U, etc.)

Optima 800 S    Starting        $120.00
Optima 800 U    Starting        $124.00
Optima 1000 M   Starting        $129.00
Optima 850/6    Starting        $103.00
Optima D750 S   Deep-cycle      $145.00
Optima D750 U   Deep-cycle      $148.00
Optima D900 M   Deep-cycle      $154.00

Nominal UPS freight to be added based on your zip code.

These discount prices are FOB prepaid our warehouse.

Freight to be calculated and added seperately.

Freight quotations require an exact address including zip code.

Quantity and types must requested in order to calculate weight.

Additional discounts available for quantity orders.

David

DC Battery Specialists
DC Marine Systems
email
160 NW 73 Street
Miami, FL 33150 USA

Phone 305-758-5041
FAX 305-758-3469

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Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 18:15:47 -0500
From: Jay Wallace

Are you planning on moving the battery to the spare tire well or the bin behind the driver? I temporarily put my Hawker in the original location after shimming it up (2.5") to height so that the pos terminal would reach the fuse box.

I was planning on moving it to the bin when I have time and warmer weather hits. I was going to secure it by casting some of the polyurethane (?) insulation foam from a can in the bottom of the bin, using plastic sheet to stop the foam from adhering to the bin or the battery, just like they do for shipping sensitive instruments. I'll probably try to find a nylon strap / buckle to further secure it. Still don't know about drilling holes / cutting the bin.

>From the archives:

Andrew Ma recently got some Hawker batteries (they were labeled something else) for about $75 ea and here is his description:

They're the Hawker Genesis G26Ah 26 ampere version. 600 cold cranking amps. They measure 6.54X6.89X4.92 (inches) and weight a scant 23 lbs. sealed. etc..

>Another, From: Linthicum, Sandy * EMC.Ver #2.5.03 ] --

Hawker energy products 800-964-2837
800-283-2948/FAX

Dry cell car batteries, plastic & metal cased

AVT 800-537-9602

Distributor of Hawker batterys & other battery products, OEM of products also.

Genensys 26amp battery with metal case
23.8lbs 6.5 wide, 6.89 deep, 4.9 tall
$ 89.66 plastic case
$104.00 steel case

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Date: Tue, 03 Mar 98 08:31:38 -0500
From: "Linthicum, Sandy"

>Is the 26EP the correct Hawker battery?

It's what I'm using. It seems to work fine. Installation is NOT a direct swap for your stock battery.

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Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 14:33:03 -0600
From: "Kevin T. Wyum"

The Hawker Genesis batteries that most people are using when putting it in the rear are:

A. Dry cell sealed meaning no liquid acid

B. Have steel plates surrounding the battery itself. The plates I believe are about a $5.00 option.

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Date: Fri, 27 Feb 1998 20:55:42 -0600
From: "Kevin T. Wyum"

> Who is the best source for the Hawker Genesis batteries?

AVT in colorado springs Colorado. AVT stands for Added Value Technologies. About $85 to $95. Cam at Pettit has a nice kit to mount it. Think the price includes the battery though.

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Date: Thu, 21 May 1998 23:49:41 -0500
From: brad barber

The Hawker is only 6.565"long x 6.920"wide x 4.957"high. My battery location is in the bin area behind the driver's seat.

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Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 18:04:07 -0700
From: "David H. Lane"

Here is the scoop on that lightweight battery I posted about earlier today.

Manufacturer: Hawker
Model: Odyssey
Weight: 13.3 lbs
Dimentions: 6.7x3.9x6.9
Power: 700 pulse current amps for 3-5 seconds, 245 cold cranking amps, deep discharge for 400 cycles
Service Life: 3-5 years.

Technology: "starved elecrolyte" in which a small amount of sulfuric acid is injected under pressure and then sealed.

Features & Performance: It can't spill anything because the acid is encapsulized. It will hold a charge for 2 years, won't produce volatile gasses when charged, so it doesn't need a fancy charger. It can be discharged 100% to 10.5 volts without damage. Voltage is said to be stable through 50% discharge.

The magazine did a test, firing up a CRX 1500, then putting a 225 amp drain on the battery until it dropped to 10.25 volts. After 30 seconds the battery had recovered to 11 volts after 30 seconds. They discharged it again from full voltage to 11 volts, and "the battery was still pushing 700 amps 20 seconds later when the Snap-On battgery/alternator test gauge lit up like a toaster and began smoking. Without recharging, we then turned over a 4-cylinder VW diesel twice, with just a hing of hesitation each time. AT this point, the charge was down to 12.3 volts, no load."

I don't understand all of this, but the battery seems to do as advertised.

Cost 150.00

Contact: Odyssey, Hawker Energy Products
617 N. Ridgeview Dr.
Warrensburg, MO 64093
816-429-7506

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Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1998 17:59:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: Paul Schruben

Most of the listers have been using Hawker Gensis G26EP 26Ah @ 22.3 lbs. Hawker doesn't list the CCA's for their Genesis batteries.

http://www.hepi.com/

The Taylor Vertex 32Ah puts out 225 CCA's and is a bit lighter at 20 lbs.

http://www.taylorvertex.com/racebat.html

You might try the Hawker Odyssey PC625 at 13.2 lbs. See David Lane's earlier post about how well it worked in a Civic. It has 265 CCA's. I think the stock 3rd gen OEM battery puts out about 450 cca's.

The Pettit kit @ $325 uses something in the G26EP class. It's 20lbs. Pettit says "1000 amps of cranking power". If those are CCA's that's overkill.

The Optima is out of the running as far as I'm concerned @ 39.5 lbs.

On the horizon are lithium-ion batteries. Nissan has announced an electric vehicle powered by Sony lithium ion batteries. They have a photo of an individual battery

It looks pretty big and may not be 12V. I called a Nissan dealer last fall but they had no specifications on the battery as a part.

Also keep in mind some racing classes requires an enclosing box for batteries outside the engine compartment. Not sure if the metal jacketed Hawker Genesis design suffices.

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Date: Fri, 05 Dec 97 07:14:50 -0500
From: "Linthicum, Sandy"

And how about a severe street accident that shatters the battery and sprays you with acid and lead. Even the Hawker dry cell batteries and the Optimia gell cells are based on acid in an absorbed form. The chance of being covered in lead and acid debris while in street cloths, and in the summer in shorts and tshirt, convinced me not to relocate the battery to the interior. In a race car you have a full cage protecting you and the battery, are fully covered by a Nomex suit and have rescue close at hand I will take the space and weight saving of having the Hawker as a replacement for the stock size battery, leaving it in the stock location, well away from me and separated from the passanger compartment by the firewall.

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Date: Fri, 5 Dec 1997 06:35:26 -0600
From: "Kevin T. Wyum"

That's the reason for the steel plates in the Hawker. Also I would shy away from mounting the battery out in the open as well. Under the bin or inside the bin mounted to the floor is very safe. If the accident is severe enough to puncture a steel cased battery inside of the bins and bolted to the floor behind a seat and cause debris to fly out and make contact with you I think you'd be praising god that you were around to feel the pain of the acid burn. Realistically if all of that could happen I really don't think you have a prayer of living through it even with a nomex suit and helmet. There is more chance of the gasoline tank being punctured and spraying burning fuel over and inside the car through broken windows. Geezzz I'll never wear shorts again. Come to think of it I don't anyway. Hmmm.

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Tom wrote this regarding what to do if you have too much electronic gear on board (e.g.- stereo, driving lights, etc.). --Steve

Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 23:00:26 -0500
From: Tom Gandey

Cheapest solution (and probably the best). Take your alternator to an alternator shop and get them to rewind it to provide more current.

If that isn't feasible because the casing is too small, try checking around for a HD replacement (most car audio people will have a large replacement alternator).

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Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 12:54:09 -0500
From: "Chow, Thom"

Well I just dropped in the 800U in the stock location last night. The vendor didn't have the 800s, so gave me the "u" instead. I guess those add'l side terninals may come in handy some day.

Anyways, I find out that the original J-bolts that held down the factory battery are too tall for the optima. Even w/ the nut at the lowest point on the bolt, it is still too tall. I guess I'll have to look for some shorter j-bolts at Pep Boys or something...

On the original factory battery (btw, this was the "big" Mazda battery), the rpms would increase by 100-200 from idle whenever I turned on the parking and/or headlights. It was also leaking a slight bit if acid. Not enough to do any damage, but enough to activate my paranoia. With the optima, there is no longer any change in rpm. I take this as a good thing. Oh yeah, the instrument lights seemed a bit brighter too :)

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Other people have shimmed up the battery to get the original bolts to work. --Steve

Battery Quick Disconnects

Spencer Hutchings added quick disconnects to his battery to make it easier to disconnect when working on the car. As he said, it is always a good idea to disconnect the negative terminal when working on the car.

Here are his pictures:

Picture of battery quick disconnect

Another picture of battery quick disconnect

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